It's been several months since i last wrote. I think the last time i wrote i was in a particularly “blue” state feeling like i was losing the daily battle on many fronts.
Well life goes on. Here in Mozambique people often say “A luta continua” (The struggle continues) and life here (like everywhere) continues to throw curve balls but life is going on and
In June I had the opportunity to go to Uganda for an internaitonal meeting on HIV. Uganda is known as the “Pearl of Africa” and clearly earns its reputation with its rich music and culture, friendly people, and green lush landscape. The meeting also was a good opportunity to hear about what successes and challenges other countries are facing in scaling up the response to HIV. And now that i've been in this field for 4+ years now, it was also a good opportunity to catch up and network with friends and colleagues in other countries.
I am (finally) a bit more settled now. My worldly belongings arrived from Malawi in late June (more than a year after I had packed them away) but just in the last month, I have finally finished painting all the rooms, hanging pictures on the wall, and it finally feels like home. For the first time in a long time, i have my belongings from all the chapters of my life (Morocco, travels when i was living in the States, Malawi) all in the same place. Which is nice. And while I have a lovely home, it is the first time I have lived on my own and this remains something I am still trying to get used to.
One of the highlights of these past months has been the visit of my cousins from Indiana. I met Wayne, Joanne, Ellen and Dean first for a few days in a game park in South Africa, where we had fun tracking rhinos, Wayne discovered morning coffee tastes much better when you put alcohol in it, and we had lots of fun catching up with old stories, etc. And they then came and hung with me in Maputo for a couple of days where we hung around the house, explored the city, introduced them to Mozambican prawns and beer, and we even spent a day in a local community building houses through Habitat for Humanity, which i think was one of the most meaningful days for us all.
I do feel like I've settled in socially here. I have a good core group of friends, many of whom i see almost daily, and many of whom have become close confidants, colleagues, running mates, and mates on weekend adventures.
And work continues as well. I do feel like i am battling what I think I should be doing and want to do (e.g. Working with Ministry of Health and national systems) versus what I am required to do (in particular a lot of reporting for internal US Government use) but trying to find the balance, get what i need to done, and still have enough time left to do the fun (and important) stuff.
I'm working on a couple of projects right now that I both enjoy and feel are important, monitoring and evaluation systems for persons getting HIV tested, for pregnant mothers to prevent HIV transmission to newborn infants, and persons on HIV care and treatment. We are also trying to get a national study up and running among groups at higher risk for HIV (including sex workers, long-distance truck drivers) to better understand issues related to HIV for these specific populations as well as to learn how programs might be best tailored to be responsive and effective with these populations.
So life goes on day by day. I was back in Malawi this past week for a meeting but also was able to catch up with friends, who noted that I seem “calmer” and more at peace now than i did when things always seemed a bit frantic in Malawi. There are still days where lots of little things get me down (e.g. Someone decided to steal all the mirrors from my car yesterday when it was parked in the street.) And perhaps most importantly, each day I am trying to actively seek out the little things that make life beautiful, for example the two birds who have perched on my door right now and are keeping me company.
So life goes on, I'm learning how to live and breathe through the downs and discover the little gems in life that keep us going and moving forward.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
In search of the silver lining
Life anywhere has its ups and downs and when people talk about moving to a different life (be it a new job, state, or country) there's often the initial honeymoon and then 6-9 months later, a “dip.”
The last couple of months have been a bit of “dip” for me.
There are not any major things but instead a stream of continuous stressors that has started to wear me down...my things STILL not yet shipped from Malawi...countless car problems including a breakdown in Joburg that grounded my car for a week followed by an accident one week later that has left my car still out of commission...a heavier workload than I would like which is leaving me tired for little beyond work...back problems and chronic headaches which have taken a cut into my running (and my mental health).
But it seems like the cloudy days of life have also forced me to see the glimpses of sunshine or silver lining that i might have otherwise missed. The kind gestures of people in my life here in Mozambique and back in the States that have helped to pick me up when I could no longer see the sunshine for the clouds...the Thelma and Louise adventure with my friend Dennis who made the 9 hour trek with me to Joburg by bus to collect my repaired car...my sister and parents who have stepped in and helped backstop me from the states when my house closing, tax time, and other “life” issues were all hitting at the same time...my colleague who drove me all one afternoon to get groceries and who let me camp out and borrow their internet connection when i was feeling otherwise alone and isolated (and without transportation.)
Last week I felt the accumlation of things was hitting a breaking point. This week things are better. I know there is still quite some time before I'm out of the whole and feeling more “settled” here. But at least I know I've got good company on this crazy adventure called life, be the days filled with clouds, there is usually still some silver lining to be found.
The last couple of months have been a bit of “dip” for me.
There are not any major things but instead a stream of continuous stressors that has started to wear me down...my things STILL not yet shipped from Malawi...countless car problems including a breakdown in Joburg that grounded my car for a week followed by an accident one week later that has left my car still out of commission...a heavier workload than I would like which is leaving me tired for little beyond work...back problems and chronic headaches which have taken a cut into my running (and my mental health).
But it seems like the cloudy days of life have also forced me to see the glimpses of sunshine or silver lining that i might have otherwise missed. The kind gestures of people in my life here in Mozambique and back in the States that have helped to pick me up when I could no longer see the sunshine for the clouds...the Thelma and Louise adventure with my friend Dennis who made the 9 hour trek with me to Joburg by bus to collect my repaired car...my sister and parents who have stepped in and helped backstop me from the states when my house closing, tax time, and other “life” issues were all hitting at the same time...my colleague who drove me all one afternoon to get groceries and who let me camp out and borrow their internet connection when i was feeling otherwise alone and isolated (and without transportation.)
Last week I felt the accumlation of things was hitting a breaking point. This week things are better. I know there is still quite some time before I'm out of the whole and feeling more “settled” here. But at least I know I've got good company on this crazy adventure called life, be the days filled with clouds, there is usually still some silver lining to be found.
Postcards from Malawi
Lil Jo...Dinner at Chipi's...Chipi at 16
And lovely Lucy as a new loyal mom (7 puppies!)
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Malawi: The Feeling of Familiarity
I went back to my former home in Malawi over Easter for a short holiday. It's the first time I have been back or seen many people since I left early last June.
When I lived in Malawi and happened to be travelling, I always knew I was going home when I got on the plane at Joburg airport and recognized several faces from the small community in Lilongwe aboard the plane. At first when I got on the plane this time, I looked around with anticipation, seeking out a familiar face which I did not find. But halfway through the flight, on my way to the bathroom, I recognized the face of my friend and former colleagues, Sam Phiri, director of the Lighthouse clinic that I had worked closely with in Malawi. I was going “home.”
Though some of the people and sights have changed somewhat since I left, it was also nice to be in a place so familiar.
My dear loyal dog, Lucy, who now stays with my friends Anne and Andreas, immediately recognized me when we drove in and gave me a big kiss on the cheek. Lucy is now the hardworking and loving mom of 7 puppies, now 2 months old, that she had with Ashanti, the dog of my friends Anne and Andreas. Lucy is still as gentle as ever, with kids, with the puppies, and still loved accompanying me on morning runs through the bush.
I spent a day or so at the Lighthouse clinic with whom I had worked and it was so nice walking into the morning staff meeting and seeing so many familiar faces and seeing the growth that has happened in the organization since I left. Malawi continues to be making positive steps in its response to HIV, with now more than 150,000 patients started on treatment. Many of the key public-health focused technical advisors who have been working with or at the Ministry are starting to transition out of Malawi so we will hopefully see Malawi continue in a similar path once these advisors leave.
I saw Chipi several times who is now nearing his 16th birthday. When he answered the phone, I at first didn't recognize his voice as it has changed considerably in the last year. He is now very much a teenager: during the first half hour I saw him, he answered every one of my questions in a mono syllabic answer, “yeah,” “Man” “Cool.” At dinner at his house one night however, the more familiar , younger theatrical side of Chipi emerged for a short while when he did a short theatrical performance for us. His health appears okay, he is still actively in care but at the same time still does appear quite skinny and continues to struggle with health issues.
I did not do much in Malawi, besides visiting with friends, sleeping, running with Lucy, but was refreshed by the many familiar sights and times: the lush green rolling hills as Malawi quickly approaches harvest time, Anne's homemade yogurt for breakfast, topped with passion fruit picked from the garden, beautiful African sunsets, the warm, gentle soul of Malawians that continues to touch my heart.
When I lived in Malawi and happened to be travelling, I always knew I was going home when I got on the plane at Joburg airport and recognized several faces from the small community in Lilongwe aboard the plane. At first when I got on the plane this time, I looked around with anticipation, seeking out a familiar face which I did not find. But halfway through the flight, on my way to the bathroom, I recognized the face of my friend and former colleagues, Sam Phiri, director of the Lighthouse clinic that I had worked closely with in Malawi. I was going “home.”
Though some of the people and sights have changed somewhat since I left, it was also nice to be in a place so familiar.
My dear loyal dog, Lucy, who now stays with my friends Anne and Andreas, immediately recognized me when we drove in and gave me a big kiss on the cheek. Lucy is now the hardworking and loving mom of 7 puppies, now 2 months old, that she had with Ashanti, the dog of my friends Anne and Andreas. Lucy is still as gentle as ever, with kids, with the puppies, and still loved accompanying me on morning runs through the bush.
I spent a day or so at the Lighthouse clinic with whom I had worked and it was so nice walking into the morning staff meeting and seeing so many familiar faces and seeing the growth that has happened in the organization since I left. Malawi continues to be making positive steps in its response to HIV, with now more than 150,000 patients started on treatment. Many of the key public-health focused technical advisors who have been working with or at the Ministry are starting to transition out of Malawi so we will hopefully see Malawi continue in a similar path once these advisors leave.
I saw Chipi several times who is now nearing his 16th birthday. When he answered the phone, I at first didn't recognize his voice as it has changed considerably in the last year. He is now very much a teenager: during the first half hour I saw him, he answered every one of my questions in a mono syllabic answer, “yeah,” “Man” “Cool.” At dinner at his house one night however, the more familiar , younger theatrical side of Chipi emerged for a short while when he did a short theatrical performance for us. His health appears okay, he is still actively in care but at the same time still does appear quite skinny and continues to struggle with health issues.
I did not do much in Malawi, besides visiting with friends, sleeping, running with Lucy, but was refreshed by the many familiar sights and times: the lush green rolling hills as Malawi quickly approaches harvest time, Anne's homemade yogurt for breakfast, topped with passion fruit picked from the garden, beautiful African sunsets, the warm, gentle soul of Malawians that continues to touch my heart.
Homeless or Homeful?
One of the most difficult questions is where do you live? Or most specifically where is your home address?
Just this last weekend, I have (finally!) moved into the house assigned to me by CDC where I will be living the duration of my time in Mozambique. It's very good to finally be in a place that I can make my own. More on my new house below, back to my different “homes.”
So where is my home now? Or really where are my homes?
If you'd ask me where I've been living more recently, I'd answer that in my first 8 months in Mozambique, I have spent 3 months in 3 different hotels in Maputo and the remaining 5 months subletting a room in an apartment in the center of Maputo.
If you ask me where I'm from, or where my home in the States is, I'd say that my home base in the States continues to be my parents' place (thanks mom and dad) though I know they are happy to see all their garage space open up as I finally move some of my stuff out, some to Mozambique, others to more permanent storage.
If you ask the question from a legal or tax perspective, I'd answer Nevada. Since the length of my time overseas meant that I was no longer a State resident of California, I needed to find/declare a state tax home now that I am directly working for the US Government. So my official state tax home is in Baker Nevada (no state income taxes in Nevada) in care of some old Peace Corps friends.
And to complicate the question yet further, I have also been fortunate enough recently to take advantage of low interest rates and the plunge in the California housing market, and so have just closed on the purchase of my first house, a cute small 2 bed-room house in Rancho Santa Margarita, minutes away from my sister Julie's house. (My parents and sister and fabulous real estate agent, my “village”, deserve lots of credit deserve tremendous thanks for helping me to pull this off from a distant, from the initial screening of houses, the enormous volume of paperwork of offers, counter offers, and closing, the housing inspection, and preparation of the house to rent out.
Homeless or homefull? Yes to both. It's been a bit unsettling to have been “on the road” for the past 10 months since I left Malawi but am grateful for all the many places I can now call home.
P.S. On my new home: the wait for my new home in Maputo appears to have paid off, I'm just moving into a lovely house, just north of Maputo. The US Ggovernment typically finds houses that would be suitable for families, so in my case, I have a much bigger house than I “need” (3 BR, 4.5 bath, an office, lovely living space, a nice garden and even a pool.) I'm still waiting on the crate of my life belongings which will has been in Malawi the last 10 months but will hopefully be making its journey to its new home soon. Lots of work here still to make this “mine” (gardening, painting, etc) and hopefully can then further “fill” the house with guests and visitors to truly make it my home.
Just this last weekend, I have (finally!) moved into the house assigned to me by CDC where I will be living the duration of my time in Mozambique. It's very good to finally be in a place that I can make my own. More on my new house below, back to my different “homes.”
So where is my home now? Or really where are my homes?
If you'd ask me where I've been living more recently, I'd answer that in my first 8 months in Mozambique, I have spent 3 months in 3 different hotels in Maputo and the remaining 5 months subletting a room in an apartment in the center of Maputo.
If you ask me where I'm from, or where my home in the States is, I'd say that my home base in the States continues to be my parents' place (thanks mom and dad) though I know they are happy to see all their garage space open up as I finally move some of my stuff out, some to Mozambique, others to more permanent storage.
If you ask the question from a legal or tax perspective, I'd answer Nevada. Since the length of my time overseas meant that I was no longer a State resident of California, I needed to find/declare a state tax home now that I am directly working for the US Government. So my official state tax home is in Baker Nevada (no state income taxes in Nevada) in care of some old Peace Corps friends.
And to complicate the question yet further, I have also been fortunate enough recently to take advantage of low interest rates and the plunge in the California housing market, and so have just closed on the purchase of my first house, a cute small 2 bed-room house in Rancho Santa Margarita, minutes away from my sister Julie's house. (My parents and sister and fabulous real estate agent, my “village”, deserve lots of credit deserve tremendous thanks for helping me to pull this off from a distant, from the initial screening of houses, the enormous volume of paperwork of offers, counter offers, and closing, the housing inspection, and preparation of the house to rent out.
Homeless or homefull? Yes to both. It's been a bit unsettling to have been “on the road” for the past 10 months since I left Malawi but am grateful for all the many places I can now call home.
P.S. On my new home: the wait for my new home in Maputo appears to have paid off, I'm just moving into a lovely house, just north of Maputo. The US Ggovernment typically finds houses that would be suitable for families, so in my case, I have a much bigger house than I “need” (3 BR, 4.5 bath, an office, lovely living space, a nice garden and even a pool.) I'm still waiting on the crate of my life belongings which will has been in Malawi the last 10 months but will hopefully be making its journey to its new home soon. Lots of work here still to make this “mine” (gardening, painting, etc) and hopefully can then further “fill” the house with guests and visitors to truly make it my home.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Turmoil and Healing in Maputo
I was out of town, doing site visits in the north of Mozambique, early last week when we first heard news that the prices of public transport in Maputo had risen, quickly setting off a wave of civil unrest in the capital. Within hours, Maputo quickly changed from the vibrant and peaceful city it usually is to one of confusion and chaos.
Despite pockets of economic growth in Maputo, Mozambique continues to be one of the poorest countries in the world, with nearly half the population living on less than a dollar a day. Salaries of civil servants remain unbearably low (e.g. A nurse at a health center makes approximately $80/month). The price of a ride on a “chapa”, the local type of mini-bus that constitutes the form of available form of public transportation for the vast majority of Mozambicans, is only 5 metacaix (approximately $0.20 US) each way, yet, given the level of poverty of many people, and the distances that many people have to travel from home to workplace, transportation is a major cost for many citizens. A recent study of union workers in Maputo estimated that workers spent approximately 35% of their monthly income on transporation.
So an increase in fares by 50% is a significant hit to people. Within hours, roadblocks were set up all over the city. Police responded with force and the people fought back. Many people were injured, a few even killed, in the process. My Portuguese tutor, Malate, was stuck in a road block for more than 12 hours and his car was damaged in the unrest.
Things have calmed down this week, the government is working with the transportation sector to identify a solution. They have set this weekend as a deadline.
Please keep Mozambique in your thoughts and prayers. The daily struggle of Mozambicans continues. People are speaking out in the way that they know how to. The government is trying to respond but there are no easy solutions.
As an American, we are protected from this, being kept safe within the confines of our community yet on some level, also feeling quite separated from teh lives and struggles of people here.
Please have hope for Mozambique and the struggles of this country.
Despite pockets of economic growth in Maputo, Mozambique continues to be one of the poorest countries in the world, with nearly half the population living on less than a dollar a day. Salaries of civil servants remain unbearably low (e.g. A nurse at a health center makes approximately $80/month). The price of a ride on a “chapa”, the local type of mini-bus that constitutes the form of available form of public transportation for the vast majority of Mozambicans, is only 5 metacaix (approximately $0.20 US) each way, yet, given the level of poverty of many people, and the distances that many people have to travel from home to workplace, transportation is a major cost for many citizens. A recent study of union workers in Maputo estimated that workers spent approximately 35% of their monthly income on transporation.
So an increase in fares by 50% is a significant hit to people. Within hours, roadblocks were set up all over the city. Police responded with force and the people fought back. Many people were injured, a few even killed, in the process. My Portuguese tutor, Malate, was stuck in a road block for more than 12 hours and his car was damaged in the unrest.
Things have calmed down this week, the government is working with the transportation sector to identify a solution. They have set this weekend as a deadline.
Please keep Mozambique in your thoughts and prayers. The daily struggle of Mozambicans continues. People are speaking out in the way that they know how to. The government is trying to respond but there are no easy solutions.
As an American, we are protected from this, being kept safe within the confines of our community yet on some level, also feeling quite separated from teh lives and struggles of people here.
Please have hope for Mozambique and the struggles of this country.
Hot Springs and Rafting in Swaziland
Last weekend, a friend celebrated her 30th birthday and a whole crew (~30 people!) headed off to nearby Swaziland for a weekend.
The Swazi border is only an hour away, and Swaziland being a relatively small country, it's easy to reach the center in about 3 hours.
Swazi is a beautiful and hilly oasis away from the heat and city of Maputo. Most of the country is rural and the country is full of places to hike, mountain bike, and other outdoors activities. And it's very green and lush, in a very un-African way (some call it the Scotland of Africa.).
We spent Friday night at a natural hot springs, soaking in the pool (while having beer and pizza.) Saturday, we spent the day on the Great Usuthu River, white water rafting. I've been white water rafting before in West Virginia and Zambia but this was the first time I'd been in small boats (two person rubber rafts, necessary to navigate the narrow passageways through the reeds and sharp turns in the rapids.) The ride was beautiful, most of the water was calm in relatively shallow water, with some challenging (3 1/2-4 grade) rapids throughout, all set in a beautiful lush green valley. Children were playing in the water along the shoreline, women were doing laundry, and luckily we saw no crocodiles!
The Swazi border is only an hour away, and Swaziland being a relatively small country, it's easy to reach the center in about 3 hours.
Swazi is a beautiful and hilly oasis away from the heat and city of Maputo. Most of the country is rural and the country is full of places to hike, mountain bike, and other outdoors activities. And it's very green and lush, in a very un-African way (some call it the Scotland of Africa.).
We spent Friday night at a natural hot springs, soaking in the pool (while having beer and pizza.) Saturday, we spent the day on the Great Usuthu River, white water rafting. I've been white water rafting before in West Virginia and Zambia but this was the first time I'd been in small boats (two person rubber rafts, necessary to navigate the narrow passageways through the reeds and sharp turns in the rapids.) The ride was beautiful, most of the water was calm in relatively shallow water, with some challenging (3 1/2-4 grade) rapids throughout, all set in a beautiful lush green valley. Children were playing in the water along the shoreline, women were doing laundry, and luckily we saw no crocodiles!
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